Intro

A brief introduction is required to give all these randoms entries some meaning:

For a long time Elaine and myself had discussed the idea of travelling and now those conversations have come to fruition and we set the date 23/9/10 to begin this trip in Delhi, India. To coincide with this we decided on volunteering for a period with the Hope Foundation on reaching Kolkata; which Elaine had volunteered for earlier this year. We will both make entries over the coming months and the aim is to hopefully give an honest reflection of the locations we have visited and our own experiences.

*Note: the following comments are not those of the Hope Foundation and should not be seen as reflection upon the charity or the invaluable work it does.

Saturday, October 23, 2010

Make block. Left, right. Up, down. Side, side. Breathe in, breathe out. And no scare fish. - The Karate Kid (1984)

Welcome to Puja Season, only comparable to festive season at home. As a result all Hope projects are closed for two weeks thus allowing us and the new volunteers to get to know the area further (see my last entry/essay). 
Puja Lights

But it’s not all fun and games, due to the two week hiatus a few of us newbies have been roped into doing some maintenance work, but to be honest we are all grateful for this. As you can understand we are all keen to be of use. So off we go; myself, Jenny, Marcella and Stephanie (who’d only arrived a day or so earlier) to a slum in Chetla to paint the inside of a school house.
We haven’t been to this project yet and Gora (Hopes “Go to guy” - how they haven’t tried to clone him yet is beyond me, night or day he’s there to help) gets us the primer, paint and brushes as well as introducing us to the locals.  It’s only a single room so by my reckoning it would be a days work at most! (I was sadly mistaken, forgot where I was for a second)
View of the slum and nearby river

Day 1: First step was wiping and sanding down the walls, which in 35 degree heat and nothing to cool you down but a solitary fan is tough… unfortunately the heat drove me to do something I hate to admit but the t-shirt had to come off, this you may think is nothing to blog about, but the crowds that came to gaze upon the overly proportioned white man (or as Elaine referred to me as “Shakaka” *see Ace Ventura 2) was definitely worth a mention. There were plenty of locals popping in to observe our not so handy handiwork and the kids were a delight once they got passed their original shyness.

My lofty position
Next we got out the primer and brushes (now these I would hazard a guess were the first brushes ever made; considering their condition but it’s all based on reducing costs so we struggled on happily) and spent the remainder of the afternoon priming the inside walls. Enough for one day we packed up our stuff and headed home for some well-needed showers.


Boy swimming in the nearby river
(note the rubbish in the distance)
Day 2: We get to Chetla eager to get the job done before the end of the day. Unknowingly, I seemed to have begun the delegating jobs as we put on the first coat, I don’t think the girls were expecting the barrage of orders being sent their way from my lofty position (I was painting the higher points) but I wasn’t exactly sitting on my backside either. We were making some good time due to the use of rollers and an improvised paint tray (you’d be surprised what you can do with a plastic bag, cardboard box and a stick of bamboo). Something small that I found endearing was that we didn’t have as many kids watching us work today, but it seemed that every adult in the slum was out to see what we were up to. Almost as if they sent the kids out the day before to test the water. By the end of the afternoon we’d put on 2 coats with great detail and got ourselves roped into a 3rd day of mural painting while the outside would also receive some attention – What could we say? They are hard to say no to!

Michelangelo! ... Like to see him top this...
Day 3: Okay so this would be our last day out in this area for the foreseeable future and I think we all felt a touch sad about this, seeing as we made some new friends and got to know some nice kids, but I suppose this is something you have to get used to as a volunteer. Plus we now had a chance to finish off 2 days’ worth of sweat and sore muscles with something that will last a bit longer.
Marcella and I decided to work on the murals while Stephanie and Jenny got to work on the front wall. Credit to Marcella as she really knew how to translate her sketches onto the wall, I, however in spite of an Honours Degree in Fine Art, struggled with making circles for the planets I was painting. Meanwhile the other two had employed the services of some of the resident young men to help with their work, so much so that they were removed from their positions of authority and came to give us a much needed hand. It was great to see the whole community pitching in to make this building, a school for their children, look as good as possible.

After & Before, would have done it the other way but it's all about composition!
Something that really stood out for me was when some kids asked to take pictures with Stephanie’s digital camera, ran off, only to return a half hour later with some great photos. It really struck me that you need to leave your cynicism behind you come here, these children are living in slums, in small one room homes (there are bigger en suites in hotels) alongside a black heavily polluted river and when given something worth so much, the thought of being dishonest is never considered. I know I’m only here a short period but the one thing that India has thought me so far is it will never stop surprising you.

Patrick (23rd of October 2010)

*Big thanks to Jenny and Stephanie for some great pictures.

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

I'm here a week now... waiting for a mission... Apocalypse Now (1979)


Okay so where were we? Kolkata we have arrived, so I will give you a rundown of week one in the "Black Hole" itself. Also Elaine has seen and done it all, so before the novelty wears off I'll describe.
Indian Sunrise from an overnight train

Tuesday 5/10/10:
Arrived in Howrah Train station and weaved our way down the platform past the many sleeping bodies (Point of note, unlike the quiet soulless stations at home the stations in India are a constant heaving body of people and noise and a home and a way of life to many). Next we had to haggle for a taxi to Tollygunge – massively overcharged but with it being 7am we were happy to pay the extra to our B&B, I'm tired and can feel myself getting a bit overwhelmed as much as I try not to (Elaine can sense it, like feckin' professor X that one). On arrival we crash into a well-deserved sleep.
Feel much better after sleeping, so we hit the streets to get our bearings, Elaine takes me to the office to meet some of the staff. We find out just how badly timed our arrival is as the Puja season (essentially Kolkata's Christmas) is just about to begin, meaning a virtual shut down of all projects for a 2 week period. May provide a useful chance to get used to my surroundings, I reckon.
"By the power of Grayskull"
Back to the B&B, tomorrow we move into our temporary accommodation until our new apartment is finished renovations.

Wednesday 6/10/10:
Moved in to the new flat, it'll do for now!
We are sharing with Pamela and Emily, both UCC students. We decide to get ourselves settled in and unpack - even if it is just for 2 weeks. Jenny who is another volunteer has arrived so we meet up with her and take a stroll to the Hope Cafe for lunch, by stroll I mean half a bloody marathon by the end of which it looks like someone has thrown a bucket of water over me. Here we also got to meet Ciara who is the volunteer coordinator.

Thursday 7/10/10:
Elaine and I go to South City which is a big fancy Western shopping mall and pick up some things to furnish our new home, it's all about the little things…
Marcella arrived today and we go for dinner in Banana Leaf, another vegetarian restaurant! It was good as it allowed us all to get acquainted plus we got to meet a number of the other volunteers; Suzie, Cathy, Eva, Deirdre and Ruth. There are 18 volunteers here at the moment.

Friday 8/10/10:
Time seems to merging as I'm finding it difficult to pin point the events of each individual day but I remember Friday night, volunteer meeting and after that my strangest off-licence experience ever (having to buy bottles from outside a tiny shop through prison bars) before Welcome to Kolkata drinks.
Deirdre asks me if I would play a part in a film for a producer she met during her time here, I agree (was after one or two) and all of a sudden I am outside the building being looked over by a well dressed Indian man. It turns out white men are difficult to come by in Tollygunge so a white man such as myself is quite in demand – I always knew I was destined for greatness... So he rings the director and within 5 minutes a car transporting three more Indian men show up and now I find myself giving my measurements so they can fit me for wardrobe,. They arrive back an hour later with my suit and the deal is done..... shooting at 9am, they'll send a car.
Where I'm filming, I do not know.
Name of the film, your guess is as good as mine..
Character and lines - hahaha this is Tollywood baby…

Mr. Hughes, you're needed on set
Saturday 9/10/10:
Got up at 8am to shave and beautify myself for my film debut, feeling the niggling beginnings of a hangover. I met with my agent and P.A.(Deirdre and Cathy) before getting the car out to the set.
*Please note at this point the whole celebrity bravado was being done as I was completely expecting to show up and it be a couple of guys and a handheld camera and some cheesy music playing on a stereo.
Dev fixes his hair, again!
Lights, Camera..... Action
Instead the car pulls up outside Eden Park (international cricket stadium) to a crowd of 200 to 300 people standing around a parked convoy of government vehicles which would later turn out to be my characters convoy. At this point I was bricking it as I was not expecting an audience – I’m not exactly a thespian! So off to my AC dressing room for a costume change, off came my Munster jersey, denim shorts, converse and on with my suit and aviators. Queue sitting around for an hour or so before being taken into the baking heat and getting the whole star treatment: umbrella holder, towel boy, chair fetcher. Starting to panic now…
6 hours later, 5 takes from 4 different angles and we were done, there is no worse feeling than standing in 38 degree heat wearing a suit and having warm sweat running down your back in front of so many spectators. But what an experience….
*still don’t know the name of the movie but I found the actor who I was trading lines with online, apparently his name is Dev and he’s the next big Indian actor. Once I find out what it was I’ll let you all know.


(Update from November 20th, the year 2017.... serious flashbacks looking back over some of these posts. Anyway I have finally gotten the time to put up that scene from Paglu - the film mentioned above. Turns out they felt it was unnecessary to have me come back in to record the audio so instead settled for an Indian actor to dub over me with an American accent, results are interesting, enjoy!)






Sunday 10/10/10:
Did nothing, as in NOTHING. After yesterday’s escapades we decided to relax and have a lazy day seeing as we have our induction tomorrow. At this point we’ve met the remaining volunteers Louise, Maeve and Winnie who are living together nearby, best place to go if you’re feeling off form I’ve noticed, the ladies really make you feel at home; tea and biscuits included.

Monday 11/10/10:
So today was the first part of our induction, we met with Annmarie who is a long term volunteer – into her 8th year in Kolkata and headed off. The following is a list of the places we visited and the work done in each:

RCFC: Is an orthopedic hospital that helps children with deformations, it provides everything from surgery to physiotherapy to family residential units. This was my first project and I was bracing myself for the worst, seeing a young child scream in pain from the physio being administered really threw me however without it the chances of that child being crippled for their adult life is nearly certain. Nobody likes seeing children in pain but when you know it is for the benefit of their health you accept that it is required, still won’t make it any easier to listen to though. It was uplifting to see the facility and resources available to those who need it, from the staff & wards to the playground that was built for the children. It’s important to maintain a positive outlook…

Arumina Hospice: Is holistic centre counseling and supporting people living with HIV/AIDS. When we arrived the Arch-Bishop of Canterbury had just visited the day before. This was nice to visit as there were many people in residence from young babies to elderly men and women. It strikes a chord knowing that there isn’t a whole lot that can be done in terms of fixing their problems but work done here in helping the residents is as good as anywhere else in the world so at least they are receiving that care. Speaking with the man running the facility it was good to know that our involvement and even just volunteers coming to visit the centre is helping to remove myths and stigmas that exist about people suffering with AIDS and the dangers they pose.
Hope Hospital: This is the hospital set up by Hope which provides medical care to those lacking the means to be treated by any state hospitals, yeah it’s one you’ll have to get your head around coming from a social welfare state, but here there is a certain criteria you need to meet before you can be treated in a hospital here, but most of the people living in slums would not meet this criteria so that is where Hope comes in. It has a male and female ward which in terms of standards I would put beside any at home. They also provide a service that helps to locate and introduce each patient to some form of support network in order to aid them in the future, this makes sense as there would be no point in treating someone only to put them back into the conditions that caused them to be hospitalised in the first place.

Toll booth coming back from Howrah (for my eFlow peeps)
Howrah DIC: The DIC (Drop in Centre) is based near the Howrah train station, one of the busiest in India. It is nothing more than a small, one room building that opens each day to provide food, shelter and some comfort for the children living on the railway platforms. A lot of these kids are homeless and have resorted to inhaling glue as a means of staving off hunger pangs and allowing them to escape the reality of their situation, if only for a short time. Although initially intimidating, the boys were very friendly and when time came to leave we all hoped to be placed there as part of our project work. The rules of the DIC are no drugs taking and no fighting; one or two of the boys were clearly on something but this was probably prior to them arriving, which meant they were in a safe environment to come down in, as a lot of the time children can come to harm on the tracks. It’s not uncommon to meet boys who have lost a limb(s) or have had other serious injuries from falling onto rail lines while on drugs.

SEED Girls Home: A protection home for at risk girls, this home houses girls from 4-17 years old. A full time home, the girls who have families can visit during school holidays, if it is appropriate. SEED is a partner of HOPE – they receive funding for this home. Elaine had worked there during her last stint in Kolkata and was really looking forward to seeing her students again. It’s an amazing project and has a very sisterly feel to it (bordering on a full time slumber party to tell you the truth).
So a hectic Monday behind us we fall into bed to begin again on Tuesday!

Tuesday 12/10/10:
We meet Annemarie at the Hope office in Panditya and get the show on the road.

Panditya Creche: So to start off the morning we visit the creche below the older girl’s home, the children that attend are from nearby slums; which gives their parents the opportunity to work, knowing their children are in a safe environment. The children are expected to wear their uniform and be clean coming in each day, in return the children are educated in preparation for the older school whilst being fed and having a nap time.
To cry or not to cry?
I felt kind of awkward with 30 something infants looking up at me with expressions that bordered on “wow look at the big white ogre” to “I just poo’d my pants and I think I’m going to cry”. Luckily the old trick of taking turns picking them up and putting back down again worked a treat and soon I was seen as non-threatening merry-go-round ride. It’s good to see they are all being given all the advantages available and it’s somewhere I’d definitely visit if I need a reminder of why I’m here.

Life Skills: Is a training center based above the Hope Café; it provides classes in computers, tailoring and micro finance along with a facility for local women to manage their savings. During our time here we got to see some of the women making Christmas cards by hand that will be sold back home in the next month. Amazing to see the attention to detail put into the process. (Expect you all to purchase these ahead of any of the Hallmark equivalent!)

Kasba Girls Home:
A fully HOPE funded home it houses “the small girls” aged 6 to 12. The girls go out to schools in the morning and come home for food, a nap and lessons in the evening (singing/dancing/computers/English). There is also another Hope ran creche similar to Panditya for locals.

Phew – what an introduction WRECKED!!!


Patrick (13th October 2010)

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Hey, how many of you people out here are a national monument, raise your hand, please? - Ghostbusters 2 (1989)

Finally! Have arrived in Kolkata! Got here yesterday and it's good to be somewhere where we can actually unpack and have a proper base for a few months. We did 6 cities in 12 days and over 1000km via trains and taxis. We are a little bit tired! So before we begin on Kolkata (and it's awesomeness) I'll recap over the last few days...
Bank of the Ganges

Varanasi - India's most Holy city.

Varanasi is built on the Ganges which is the holiest river in India. People come here to die as dying in Varanasi is thought to release them from the reincarnation cycle. So when they die, they are wrapped in bright cloth and carried through the streets to the Ganges where they are placed on a pyre, set alight and then the ashes are scattered on the river. You can go to the ghats and pay to see this. We did not.

In fact we didn't do much of anything in Varanasi. We were knackered from travelling (and the train) and the streets were a labyrinth of identical lane ways which we kept getting lost in. So in the end we stuck to a 20 min radius of our hostel and chilled out. A waste of one of the worlds most interesting cities? Perhaps - but we enjoyed doing nought.

Can't touch this!
A less complicated street
And besides we didn't do nothing! Patrick bought 2 pairs of pants. Not just any pants - MC Hammer pants. In gold and red. If he were to wear them at home Cork would come to a standstill of raucous laughter, but here in sweaty, humid Asia - they work. And come Halloween all he'll need is a cummerbund and an eyepach. Arrggghhh!

Whilst enjoying our laziness we found the best little cafe (ok not found, we read about it in the lonely planet book - but I'm sure we would have found it on our own at some stage!) called The Brown Bread Cafe. And it served - you guessed it - brown bread!!! It was so good that I, Elaine Kingston, even ate mine with butter. Anyone who knows me will get how big of a deal that is... But back to the cafe - it was a great place with big cushions and little tables where you took off your shoes and kicked back. It's was a little bit more expensive than other places but was part of a charity  that works to provide free education and medical assistance for the poor of Varanasi so no one seemed to mind paying that bit extra.

Buffalo in the Ganges
We left Varanasi and headed to Bodhgaya - the birthplace of Buddhism. We were there for 1 night and we saw LOADS of temples. Countries who would have a large population of Buddhists would build a temple in Bodhgaya in homage. There were temples from China, Japan, Tibet, Nepal etc. Most where build in the last 20/30 years or so and it was strange to see such ornate(ness) and detail in something built so recently. The highlight of the trip was the 90 foot stone Buddha that was unveiled by the Dali Lama himself. As you can see it's really serene and was very peaceful to walk around. Or at least it was, until we had images of it coming to life as in Ghostbusters 2 and started singing "your love, is lifting me, higher and higher". We weren't asked to leave, but felt in was implied in peoples glares. 

Elaine (5th October 2010)